A food critic feeds his love for Lebanese cuisine at the source

As Caline and I have become closer over the years, and I grew to love her family, a trip to Beirut became inevitable. We finally planned the trip this summer as a preamble to her brother Nadim’s wedding, which took place in Estonia.

The definition of vacation for a control-freak food critic is to let someone else plan your eating. The Jarudis — particularly Natalie, who had handwritten a day-by-day schedule — handled nearly everything during my time in Lebanon. Anissa had given me a long list of places to try. Everyone I met in Beirut, especially other writers, was opinionated to the point of fiery about their favorite restaurants and street stalls.

Man'oushe spread with kashk , tomato and sesame seeds, part of a lunch feast in the mountains of Lebanon near the Shouf cedar reserve. Like any major world city, Beirut is complex and engulfing. Nine days were enough to viscerally grasp how much time I’d really need to spend there to even superficially understand its intricacies. The confluence of cultures, religions and languages is singular; I loved how within two sentences of conversation I’d hear Arabic, French and English words strung together instinctively.

There was a Thursday I wish I had filmed so I could recall it perfectly, to protect it from any warping twists of memory. At the center of it was a meal in the mountains shared with two women, Nadine Touma and Sivine Ariss, who run a publishing house calledthat creates sumptuously illustrated children’s books and graphic novels.

There's is no such thing as a 'Lebanese cuisine' it's just Arab...

latimes BillAddison 🍽🍽🍽

latimes Es mi comida favorita.

latimes your online menu and order processing system that was provided to you by Home Grub. Try out a demo. Click on the 'Shop Now' button above (just below the banner). This will take you to our Demo Kitchen menu system and order processing.

BillAddison This mess in photo-- How can one call it food?

BillAddison Maghmour - one of my favorites. Getting a good crop of eggplant from the garden this year - will be cooking up another pot soon.

BillAddison Love it - I ate Lebanese last week in Minneapolis

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