It doesn’t take a lot to make me nostalgic for how we used to dine out in the old days — by which I mean the roughly 250 years from the invention of the restaurant until mid-March of this year. One especially powerful memory, though, comes from a meal just a month before everything changed, at the year-old modern-Mexican restaurant Comedor, in Austin, Texas.
Comedor is one of many restaurants across the country that turned to creating Blue-Apron-like, ready-to-cook meal kits as a way to make it through the days of pandemic-related closures and social distancing. Even as Texas has allowed restaurants to open their dining rooms, owners William Ball and Philip Speer have opted to stay closed for the foreseeable future, even for takeout and delivery.
“ The truth is, the meal was delicious, offering all the primal pleasures and sophisticated balances of flavor I remembered from the first time I ate it. It was also a little depressing. ” Their loss. I cranked the playlist, starting with “Fire” by Black Pumas. The house was soon filled with the smell of roasting beef. I managed to use a mandoline on the whole carrots and radishes without injury , and assembled the components on a plate in as close an approximation as possible of Comedor’s colorful platter. As at the restaurant, I scooped the gelatinous contents of each bone onto the tortillas, topping each taco with greens, vegetables and gremolata.
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