Fried Chicken Sandwich With Spicy Mayonnaise
“Fried,” “Chicken” and “Sandwich”: three alluring enough words on their own; together, they promise pure, unbridled pleasure. And, frankly, that’s the only kind of pleasure I’m interested in. And it’s simple enough to do. I concede the idea of deep-frying can make one hesitate, but frying one single chicken thigh is a very much less hot and bothersome activity than you might imagine. I use my 9-inch heavy-based pan for this but do use a wok if you prefer.
It’s hardly a takeaway-at-home impulse dinner, however, as the chicken ideally needs to marinate for quite a few hours (although, in extremis, you can leave it out on the kitchen countertop for 20 minutes instead). But I like working my way up to this very special solo supper, and I plan it lovingly, making sure I get the chicken thigh in its sharp, spicy marinade a good day before I’m going to be eating it. And while I have stipulated in the ingredients list what else you’ll need for your sandwich, I am merely reporting on how I like to eat it. You may choose to ignore my suggestions entirely: there is no more personal food than a sandwich and I expect you to have your own strongly held views as to what to put in yours.
Chinese Chili Crisp oil is a staple in my kitchen but really, any chili component works along with the mayonnaise; if using a sweeter sauce though omit the honey. For me, shredded iceberg is pretty well non-negotiable, but I’ll use romaine uncomplainingly in its stead. And while I used to consider pickles essential, I increasingly want some sour-sharp kimchi in their place. If I don’t have any, then I swap in some coarsely grated carrot and a fierily generous splodge of the Fermented Hot Sauce, which is just perfect with the crisp-coated, juicy-fleshed chicken.
Ingredients
1
For assembling
Preparation
Step 1
Pour the kefir, or buttermilk, or yogurt into a small dish and stir in the ½ teaspoon of hot smoked paprika, ½ teaspoon of salt, lemon juice, Dijon mustard, and maple syrup. Peel the garlic and mince or grate it in, too. Give a good stir, then add the chicken thigh and turn it in the marinade to make sure it’s well coated. Cover the dish, then leave for at least 4 hours or up to 2 days in the fridge. (If you simply cannot wait that long, leave the chicken in its marinade out on the kitchen countertop for 20–40 minutes.)
Step 2
Take the chicken, in its marinade, out of the fridge in good time to get to room temperature before you start to cook it.
Step 3
Mix the flour with the remaining ¼ teaspoon each of hot smoked paprika and salt in a shallow dish. Lift the chicken out of the marinade, but don’t try and shake it off. Dredge both sides of the chicken in the seasoned flour, then dip briefly back into the marinade and dredge again. This double-dredging is essential to get a thick, shaggy coating. You can leave the coated chicken in the flour dish until you fry.
Step 4
Mix the garlic mayonnaise with the Chili Crisp oil and honey, and spread both pieces of a split burger bun (or a couple of slices of bread) with it. Put a plate lined with paper towels by (but not dangerously near) the stove, if you want to get rid of any excess fat once the chicken’s cooked.
Step 5
Pour enough oil into your chosen pan to come about 1½ inches up the sides. Heat until a small piece of bread becomes golden and crisp almost instantly; if you want to be precise, and have a food thermometer, then you want the fat to be at 375ºF when the chicken goes in (and about 350ºF as it cooks).
Step 6
Using tongs, gently lower the chicken thigh into the hot oil, and cook for 3–4 minutes on each side, by which time the coating should be deep gold and very crisp and the chicken completely cooked through. Remove to the waiting paper-lined plate, remembering to take the pan of oil off the heat, and leave to stand for a couple of minutes while you shred some iceberg lettuce and get out your pickles. Put a handful of shredded lettuce on top of the mayo on the bottom slice, top with the fried chicken, add kimchi, pink-pickled onions and any other pickles you want. Scatter with a bit more lettuce and squidge on the top of the bun or second slice of bread. Go in cautiously: I have more than once burned my mouth.
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