‘The big light is on’: the wood-panelled dining room.Unalome by Graeme Cheevers, 36 Kelvingrove Street, Finnieston, Glasgow G3 7RZ . Three courses à la carte £80, tasting menu £90, wines from £34, which is an awful lot of syllables for just one restaurant name, our waiter announces solemnly that before we are allowed to see the menu, we will be brought some canapés “to entice the palate”. I’m sure my spirits are meant to soar at this; instead, they sag.
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