Daniel Roseberry\u2019s fourth collection for Schiaparelli , titled The Matador, takes inspiration from an eclectic mash-up of eras, artists, space aliens and, naturally, matadors, for joyful pieces that resist classification. His new collection is more interested in the notion of prettiness than last season\u2019s, which flirted with extremity in a push...
Daniel Roseberry’s fourth collection for Schiaparelli, titled The Matador, takes inspiration from an eclectic mash-up of eras, artists, space aliens and, naturally, matadors, for joyful pieces that resist classification. His new collection is more interested in the notion of prettiness than
last season’s, which flirted with extremity in a push back against the limits of couture. After a year filled with apocalyptic doom, Roseberry takes a look at what adornment can be in this new, post-pandemic world – and the result is positive, playful and poetic.
Thebijouxare as bold as ever, with last year’s breastplates making room for a pair of human lungs worn against black crepe, their capillaries dipped in gold. A mould of a torso is paired with shredded trash bags woven together with silk. Body parts are viewed in isolation – a giant pair of lips become a minaudiere; a hand forms a belt that cradles the wearer around the waist; eyes, nose and stomach are handpainted in gold and set in rococo frames. headtopics.com
The adornments are a sensual foil for the clothes, which celebrate oversized silhouettes and reference the history of the brand. Wool crepe adorned with silk roses nods to 1937’s Jean Cocteau x Schiaparelli collaboration, while an embellished jacket in white denim is a reference to Schiaparelli’s back catalogue. Other, colourful clothing designs look to the future – a bright pink silk rose sits on a black velvet dress, while other pieces are drawn in a wealth of blues, pinks and oranges.Read more: Wallpaper* »
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