ometimes a fashion show is so good that you have to sense-check its impact with your fellow attendees: have you simply woken up in a state of delirious enthusiasm, or was it actually entirely excellent? The general consensus on today’s Loewe was the latter. This was ready-to-wear in its most exquisitely crafted incarnation, and perhaps the best example of Jonathan Anderson’s meticulously honed vision yet.
Loewe is a brand rooted in the craftsmanship of its leather ateliers; Anderson’s goal has always been to translate that spirit elsewhere by applying the same savoir-faire to his clothing. The technically-developed collections that result have usually been a little more bohemian in their appearance than this season’s – certainly the summer offerings – but Anderson has, over recent years, cornered that market with the evolution of his Balearic-chic Paula’s Ibiza range .
“It was more technical this season; it couldn't rely on raw seams, but had to rely on precision,” said Anderson backstage – and you could write reams on the technicalities behind the guipure lace two-pieces or cream knit capes fastened with silken bows; the lattices of ribbon that became deconstructed overlays or one wispy white number whose print didn’t materialize through surface decoration but through fine threads strung through circular cut-outs.
It’s certainly a hard thing to make a pannier appear contemporary – but when part of a buttercup yellow dress formed with layers of lace, it somehow did. Instead of translating 16th and 17th century references into costume, Anderson explored the undergarments that bolstered their structure – panniers and petticoats and the like – and turned them into seemingly-simple ponchos and billowing capes.
In a typically esoteric manner, as the show was about to begin, translucent curtains installed around the room’s edges began to draw. “I was in Japan in a hotel room when these curtains automatically opened and I thought, ‘What is it like when we do our show first thing in the morning?’” said Anderson . “And then I thought, you know when you’re stressed out and people say, ‘Your best work is in the morning?' It’s because it’s about clarity.
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