Jimi Famurewa reviews Carmel: Middle Eastern magic to draw the crowds

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'As we stepped back out into the sunlit sparkle of Lonsdale Road, my abiding feeling was envy that, unlike the chef, I didn’t live closer.'

. But then it landed on the table: a glossy, puffed dome, heaped with zhoug-trickled wild mushrooms and manouri cheese, spotted with angry, oven-blackened bubbles and looking vaguely like a fire damaged blowfish. A slice went in my mouth — light and garlicky and creamy, with a long, lusciously complex sourdough finish — and I was rendered speechless.

 

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