“I played a lot of video games when I first arrived in London,” says Bulgarian-born menswear designer. “I didn’t really have any friends and I wasn’t very confident with my language. My safe zone was just being at home, starting at midnight and playing games all night with people from all over the world.
Drawn to the idea of making a subculture collection, Kostadinov struggled to see himself fit into any particular group; he loves music, but didn’t quite qualify as a music nerd, he used to play plenty of football, but didn’t want to do a sporting collection. Then he remembered the solace he found in RPGs , and landed on the idea of a “city elf”; someone who “maybe works at a bank in the day, but at night plays a female character in the game.
However idyllic the setting, showing in Mexico was bound to throw up some hurdles for Kiko and his team; namely, the question of models. “I don’t really have a Kiko boy in my head,” he says. “If someone looks cool and looks amazing in the clothes, I don’t really have any preference. But fit is something that I’m very precise about.
Kostadinov is very careful to emphasise that he did not want to fetishise Mexican culture, nor did he want it to seem like what he calls a “pretentious resort collection” staged by the likes of Louis Vuitton. “I didn’t want to come across as capitalising on how cool and exotic Mexico is,” he says. “It was just about being here and absorbing the energy, the casting, the museum’s architecture.”
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