is a bit of a heretic in the perfume industry – as a brief but mighty biography can attest. Bucking family tradition Frédéric moved to Manhattan to study history of art at NYU, before accepting a position at the renowned perfume laboratory Roure Bertrand Dupont.
A passionate collector of contemporary art, Malle is an aesthete in the truest sense – a connoisseur sensitive to art and beauty – but he’s also a straight-talker, both playful and perverse in his attitude to creation.
Anyway, Anne Flipo and I always knew we’d work together, and I knew that she was very good with flowers. I had this idea of making a green perfume – green is interesting because it’s in a vegetal world, it’s more or less an abstraction but made with things that have a familiar atmosphere.
FM: Yeah, it’s funny because we arguably use the most naturals, because we can. Look at Carnal Flower, which has the largest amount of natural tuberose in it; in Portrait Of A Lady there is a shitload of rose, natural rose extract [400 flowers per 100ml bottle, in fact]. Even [the aromatic, woody perfume] French Lover has a lot of naturals in it, although I never say it because I don’t want to comfort people and make them think that natural is best.
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