A museum tells the history of one of Bangkok’s notorious districts

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The Patpong Museum won Thailand’s best community museum award last year. Its latest exhibition tells the story of Charles Sobhraj, a serial killer

more to Patpong than sex,” Michael Messner says. The district lies east of the Chao Phraya river in Thailand’s capital city; two parallel streets host night markets, bars, clubs and sex shows. People forget, Mr Messner says, that “theran its first Bangkok safe house here, while American corporations like Pan Am turned the street into the city’s main business district during the cold war. Tony Poe—theagent Marlon Brando’s Colonel Kurtz in ‘Apocalypse Now’ is based on—drank on this street.

Mr Messner, who was born in Austria, is the son of Ernst Fuchs, an artist and one of the founders of the Vienna School of Fantastic Realism. While Mr Messner was managing the Fuchs family’s private museum in Vienna in the 1990s, he frequently travelled to Bangkok on behalf of his father to have large bronzes cast. In 2001 he met his wife, Jittra, bought a bar in Patpong and befriended Praphan Poumchaosuan, better known as “Uncle Vijit”, a barber and prominent figure in the district.

As the exhibition on Sobhraj indicates, the museum does not shy away from the more sordid history of the neighbourhood. There is vintage imagery from the area’s many bars, of and the gay and fetish scene. Contemporary erotic art hangs on the walls. And the museum’s centrepiece is a replica of the Grand Prix, the first go-go bar to open in Patpong in 1969. If they so wish, visitors can enjoy a cold beer while watching dancers’ never-ending gyrations on a floor-to-ceiling screen.

 

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The apartments where sobhraj stayed arent too far away from the museum

This is not the reason most people visit patpong.

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