Black women spend an inordinate amount of money on their hair – more so than any other demographic - and yet the majority of the mainstream hair brands cater solely to Caucasian hair. As incredulous as it sounds, it is actually near impossible for me to buy products for my hair in mainstream stores. Particularly styling products.
For the most part, hair products for afro and multi-textured hair are relegated to beauty supply outlets in localities that are deemed ‘ethnic’ – Peckham (aka Little Lagos), Finsbury Park, Brixton, Wood Green, etc. Anyone who has visited these stores will know there is an overwhelming amount of choice, however the quality varies greatly, and so many are out of step with the growing demand for clean, ethically sound and toxic-free formulations.
Considering all the beauty industry’s supposed steps towards inclusivity, the mind boggles at how so many hair care brands inadvertently (or not) ignore an entire demographic of people because their curl pattern doesn’t quite fit. It is reminiscent of where we were with foundation ranges. There was always the argument by beauty companies that the shade range was limited because the market wasn’t there, and that “black doesn’t sell”. Obviously, despite the fact that this has been proven wrong, the hair care industry remains very much behind the curve. Still, there are some strides being made to address this issue.
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Recently, I was surprised to receive a random product called Black Castor and Shea Leave in Conditioning Cream. It was light, softening and smoothed out frizz. In a nutshell, it was brilliant. The reason for my surprise? It was created by Superdrug. Another high street brand I have mentioned before in this context is Pantene. The shampoo and conditioner from the Gold Series are some of the least expensive but the absolute best I have ever used (yes, really), however one of the initial criticisms of the shampoo was that sulphates formed part of the formulation. In response, it recently launched a sulphate-free version.
While huge conglomerates like Pantene are usually viewed suspiciously when entering this market (“what took you so long?” was typical of the more sceptical responses) what went in favour of the brand in this case is that the Gold Series product line was developed by a team of scientists and dermatologists, led by Rolanda Wilkerson PHD, who were all people of colour themselves, who lived the afro hair experience or at least had mothers, daughters and sisters who did. Undoubtedly, when developing a product, that kind of shared experience goes a long way in building the bond of trust between a brand and consumer. Particularly in the textured hair space.
This is the case with Briogeo, the wildly successful plant-powered clean hair brand. Founded in 2013 by Nancy Twine, a New York-based woman of colour, it is the fastest growing haircare brand in the States. While the expansive product line has not all been produced specifically for afro hair, it is inclusive in the best sense of the word, in that every hair type will find something suited to them. I’m rarely satisfied with co washes because most don’t foam – yes, I am one of those die-hard sud lovers – they have no slip, and even worse, they don’t actually clean. The reverse is true of Briogeo’s Be Gentle Be Kind Avocado + Quinoa Co Wash.
While it doesn’t foam, it is a terrific cleanser that leaves hair wonderfully hydrated and defines curls beautifully – i.e. they ‘pop’. Shea Moisture is another strong US brand, albeit more long-standing than Briogeo, with an even more wide-ranging collection of products. My all time favourite product is their Coconut and Hibiscus Curl and Style Milk. This rich moisturiser is creamy, deeply hydrating and moonlights as a detangler – I get slightly anxious when it begins to run out because it is just so good, and in a beauty category where really brilliant styling products are still, comparatively, lacking it is a godsend.
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As is Only Curls Hydrating Curl Crème. This blend of shea butter, marula oil and aloe is part of a four-strong collection of products from a UK brand. It replenishes moisture incredibly well, and so unsurprisingly it is always sold out. Interestingly the coterie of brands (all niche) leading the charge in haircare for afro hair are homegrown. There is of course Charlotte Mensah's eponymous brand – her Manketti Oil makes for a great hair strengthening steam treatment – but there are also a number of new kids on the block that are equally impressive and pushing the ‘clean beauty’ envelope as the core of their ethos. Big Hair + Beauty is one such brand. Their Whipped Butter is particularly notable. It looks and feels like whipped cream – but with greater density – and works to soften and hydrate without leaving the hair greasy or tacky. Unlike most hair butters it is just as effective used when the hair is dry as it is when the hair is wet. And the fresh lemon scent is divine.
Another relatively young British brand, Curlsmith , produces some of the best hair products I have tried in a while. Their key ingredient is the Resurrection Flower, which locks moisture into the hair (contrary to what most people think, afro hair can be incredibly fragile and needs huge doses of hydration to stop it from breaking off). It is difficult to choose my favourite Curlsmith products, but if pushed for my top three, I would say the Conditioning Wash (your hair will be frizz free and unimaginably soft), the Intense Treatment Serum (for a deeply conditioning treatment that doesn’t need rinsing out) and the Oil in Cream (a great daily moisturiser). Oh and the Moisture Memory Reactivator (a spray to refresh curls in between washes – think of it as a non-dry dry shampoo for afro-haired girls). Sorry, yes, that is four. That’s the downside when faced with an epic collection of products – choosing between them becomes your biggest dilemma.
This is something you are also likely to experience when you visit AntidoteStreet.com, an online treasure trove of brands dedicated to Afro and multi-textured hair types. Cleverly curated by Winnie Awa, a former management consultant and e-commerce expert who has worked for the likes of Ernst and Young, Net-a-Porter and LVMH, this is where you can discover brilliant products from the likes of Jim+Henry, Dizziak, Hic et Nunk, The Afro Hair & Skin Co and Anita Grant. At a time when many businesses are flailing or flat-lining, this platform and many of the aforementioned brands and products are gaining traction. Why? Because the demand is there; mixed textured and afro hair does need products that understands its needs, and anyone that dismisses this requirement by saying “hair is hair” has not done their homework.
There are many arguments that deem inclusivity a social and moral responsibility, but considering the evidence proving how much black women spend on hair – apparently close to eight times more than our Caucasian counterparts, I’d say it is simply commercially inept to ignore it. I’ll leave that with the hair industry to digest.
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