5 Things To Know About Martine Rose’s Playful SS22 Collection

“I wanted to express positivity and playfulness,” the designer tells British Vogue.

Fashion, Martine Rose

1/14/2022 9:37:00 PM

“I wanted to express positivity and playfulness,” Martine Rose tells British Vogue.

“I wanted to express positivity and playfulness,” the designer tells British Vogue.

Courtesy of Martine RoseNative ShareThe collection is about joy, and celebrating youth culture“It definitely feels like a classic Martine Rose collection – I wanted to express positivity and playfulness,” explains the designer. “One of the print motifs with the telephones takes reference from an Athena [high-street retailer that’s now defunct] poster, which everyone had up in their rooms when I was a teenager. Ultimately, it's about exploring youth culture, in a wider sense.”

Courtesy of Martine RoseNative ShareThe standout feature is an awkwardly tucked-in collar“It’s quite weird,” says Rose of her favourite detail. “The weirdness makes me question whether it’s right, and I always find joy when I’m in that space where I’m like, do I, or don’t I? That usually means I love it. I felt that way about the loafers, as well.” Since the oversized, square-toe loafers she’s talking about became a retail hit, it’s likely that we can anticipate a similar response to this off-kilter piece.

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spring/summer 2022 collection, the London-based designer drew inspiration from British youth culture, collaborated with some of the most dynamic women in photography, and introduced a new – and seriously good – off-kilter collar detail. Below, five things to know about the collection. Courtesy of Martine Rose Native Share The collection is about joy, and celebrating youth culture “It definitely feels like a classic Martine Rose collection – I wanted to express positivity and playfulness,” explains the designer. “One of the print motifs with the telephones takes reference from an Athena [high-street retailer that’s now defunct] poster, which everyone had up in their rooms when I was a teenager. Ultimately, it's about exploring youth culture, in a wider sense.” Courtesy of Martine Rose Native Share The standout feature is an awkwardly tucked-in collar “It’s quite weird,” says Rose of her favourite detail. “The weirdness makes me question whether it’s right, and I always find joy when I’m in that space where I’m like, do I, or don’t I? That usually means I love it. I felt that way about the loafers, as well.” Since the oversized, square-toe loafers she’s talking about became a retail hit, it’s likely that we can anticipate a similar response to this off-kilter piece. Courtesy of Martine Rose Native Share The visuals were a collaboration with brilliant female photographers The lookbook is a mashup of imagery shot by some of the coolest female photographers around right now: Camille Vivier, Rosie Marks, and Sharna Osborne. “I love collaborating and the exchange of ideas that comes with it – it’s one of my favourite things to do creatively,” says the designer. “The fact that it was all women was incredible, and then we shot old blokes, which is great.” Courtesy of Martine Rose Native Share The casting was a cross-generational blend In collaboration with casting director Isabel Bush, the subjects of the shoot included older men found through street casting, mixed in with female models, as well as the radical drag performance artist from the ’70s, Lavinia Co-op. “All of them were incredible and super inspiring, it was such a pleasure to work together – we all ended up dancing on set and had a brilliant time,” says Rose. 5/5 Native Share An eclectic mix of hairstyles gave the shoot a surreal twist It’s hard to miss the hair looks, thanks to hairstylist Gary Gill, a longtime collaborator of Rose. The men all had their manes slicked back (in styles that verged on comb-overs for some), while the women wore short bouffant wigs with fringes in vivacious shades of bright yellow, fluorescent magenta, platinum blonde, and a glittering scarlet reminiscent of Christmas tinsel. The eclectic approach was, of course, entirely intentional. “It’s supposed to be surreal,” says Rose. “With a bit of humour and fun!”