Cooking up a storm: Immigrant who swam to Hong Kong, dropped out of school to work becomes top chef

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Not long after Wan Tat-kong swam from mainland China to Hong Kong as an illegal immigrant in the early 1960s, he had to quit studying and worked in a restaurant at the age of 13 to help his family make ends meet. “My family was not wealthy when I was a child. I joined the industry because we needed food...

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Not long after Wan Tat-kong swam from mainland China to Hong Kong as an illegal immigrant in the early 1960s, he had to quit studying and worked in a restaurant at the age of 13 to help his family make ends meet.

The Japanese consulate in Hong Kong conferred the award to Wan earlier in April, but he only received the honours at the residence of the Japanese envoy, Kenichi Okada, on Tuesday because of delays amid the coronavirus pandemic. The city has the largest number of Japanese restaurants outside the country, with 1,350 such premises in 2021, according to official numbers.

Wan taught Tazuke and his wife Chinese cuisine and formed a strong bond with the couple, who were impressed enough to invite him to work in Japan when he was 24.“They didn’t know much about the country and I had to explain to them that Japan is a good country to work in, and that I’ll be safe there so they shouldn’t worry,” he said.

Although age has caught up to Wan, the chef has no plans to retire yet and hopes to continue his lifelong mission of bringing Chinese and Japanese food together.

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