Unlike other Champagne houses, Dom Perignon does not release non-vintage bubbles, so when it decides a year isn't up to snuff, all the wine goes away.
bubbles, produced by blending wine from a variety of years. All 370 houses that make sparkling wine in the region offer bottles without years on them—except for one. Dom Pérignon only releases vintage Champagne produced from a single harvest. While othercan take the opportunity of a less-than-stellar season to increase their stock of base wines, if the quality of the vintage is not up to snuff there will be no Dom Pérignon.
Other wineries sometimes don’t produce wine in a given year, but that’s usually related to weather or natural disaster, such asruining a whole vineyard’s yield. Dom Pérignon doesn’t require such extremes to scrap a vintage, in fact ,this is already the fourth time it has done it this century, coming on the heels of not releasing bottles from 2001, 2011, and 2014. So we spoke to Chaperon about why he made the call to kill 2023.
Of course, 2023 began much the same as other vintages. “We start every year with the potential of around 1,000 plots, all sourced from the bestacross 15 grand crus and 10 premier crus of Champagne.” Many individuals participate in the process too: “Thousands of people are involved in the harvest of grapes, which are still 100 percent hand-picked. Hundreds are involved in the winemaking process,” he points out.
The financial toll of not having a product to release after caring for vineyards, harvesting grapes, paying employees, and going through primary fermentation looms large.
Chaperon and his team memorialized their lost vintage by commissioning an exhibit at Barcelona’s Palau Martorell museum titled “Trace: Pré-Assemblages 2023” that documented the creative and physical steps that went into making a Champagne that will never be released.
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