Fabrice Brunel of Chateauneuf du Pape is making exceptional Grenache by turning down the influence of oak and letting the fruit do the talking.
. Taking its name from the palace in which the Avignon popes resided during the 14th century, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is where the French appellation system was first created in 1923. The region is home to mainlyValley AOC is known for bold and meaty reds with a firm touch of oak, Domaine André Brunel has been fermenting and aging its wines in stainless steel and concrete for many vintages, allowing the purity of its old-vine Grenache to shine through.
Long before a recently noted trend for a lighter touch of oak in red wines, André Brunel, who passed away in 2022, began minimizing barrel influence on his wines, a tradition his son Fabrice, eighth-generation owner and, is carrying on. He and his co-winemaker Romain Pitaud have transitioned to no oak at all on their highest end wine, the newly released Cuvée Centenaire 2022, which retails for $300.
And while recent vintages of Les Cailloux contain 10 percent Syrah aged in oak—which Fabrice explains is to prevent “reduction,” a flaw related to lack of oxygen in the winemaking process that can cause unpleasant odors—the newest release is completely unoaked. Fabrice tellsthat his father preferred wines with strong fruit profile. “He thought that Grenache is a very subtle grape, and he didn’t want to hide its complexity behind oaky aromas,” Fabrice says.
Neighboring winery Château de Beaucastel’s CdP uses 13 varieties and ages around 45 percent of it—the Syrah and Mourvèdre—in oak, while Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe’s top end Rouge Le Crau is made with only 65 percent Grenache and is matured in large oakWhile both esteemed producers create amazing expressions of Châteauneuf-du-Pape vintage after vintage, Domaine André Brunel truly showcases the potential of small-batch, old-vine Grenache from the southernmost AOC in...
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