It’s a wonder collard greens don’t show up on the table more often and in more ways, says chef Adrienne Cheatham. Here’s how she prepares them.
When I think of collard greens, I almost instinctively picture a steaming pot of long-simmered leaves, sliced into delicate ribbons or rolled into tight little bundles, swirling among pieces of smoked meat made tender by hours on the stove. This is how collard greens have always been prepared in my family, often picked by my grandfather from his garden after carefully considering each bunch.
As a rule, the larger the leaf the more developed it is, making its fibers tougher and the flavor more bitter. The smaller leaves will be more tender and sweeter or less bitter, a perfect substitution for kale in salads. That’s why you should purchase young collards that are on the smaller side. Stores frequently carry bunches of collards that are very large, dark green and tough. While I still enjoy these in salads, they are much better suited to being cooked the traditional way.
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