RIYADH, Saudi Arabia, Feb 12 — For Farah al-Malki, growing coffee plants in Saudi Arabia's southwestern region of Jizan is more than just a profession. It is a family tradition passed down from generation to generation.
“My father inherited it from his grandfathers, and I took over and passed it down to my sons and then on to my grandchildren,” Malki toldJizan is known for its red Khawlani coffee beans, often blended with cardamom and saffron to give a yellowish hue of coffee — locally known as ghawa — and a taste markedly different from the bitter black liquid drunk elsewhere in the Middle East and in the West.
Served with dates in homes and royal palaces across the kingdom, breaking barriers of societal hierarchy, ghawa is considered a symbol of hospitality and generosity. Donning the traditional dress of coffee farmers, a dark “chemise” shirt and ankle-length skirt known as a “wizrah”, along with a belt holding a dagger, Malki is still tending to the fields despite his age.
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