Chef Beaubien-Wright strikes a balance between approachability and innovation with fresh, creative plates that showcase elements of ye olde Cuisine Classique translated for a modern palate. This is upscale, inventive fare that—compressed pear and kohlrabi chips notwithstanding—doesn’t look down its nose at anybody.
In one dish, deeply caramelized scallops sit in a glossy sauce of charred escarole and romaine—a callback to the imaginative modernity of Beaubien-Wright’s time cooking at Actinolite, and a riff on the timeless French pairing of scallops with watercress sauce. A Cornish hen is served with rutabaga that’s undergone a traditional légumes-glacés treatment but with gooseberry juice standing in for the traditional lemon.
This is cheese and crackers, levelled up. Lush, earthy gorgonzola is served with a rhubarb-hibiscus compote, frilly frisée, citrusy shiso, puffed amaranth and a cracker dusted with sesame seeds, nori powder and popcorn powder. Crunchy and creamy, with just the right hit of sugar, this rather unlikely ingredient combo has no business working as well as it does. $14.An idyllic summer dish to have with a cool glass of white, this salmon tartare plays on the chef’s love of gravlax.
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