Our cookbook of the week is The Food of Sichuan by Fuchsia Dunlop, a James Beard Award-winning specialist in Chinese cuisine. To try a recipe from the book, check out: Mapo tofu, fish-fragrant eggplants and soup noodles with ground pork topping.
“It’s a really warm, generous and joyful cuisine,” says Dunlop. “It’s so much more than just heat and spice — it’s very varied and subtle.” It was in Chengdu, Sichuan’s capital, that she fell in love with Chinese food as a student in 1994. After completing her studies at Sichuan University, she became the first foreigner to enrol in a professional training course at the Sichuan Institute of Higher Cuisine. Now based in London, Dunlop has won four James Beard Awards for her extensive writing on Chinese cooking, a career trajectory she wouldn’t have thought possible in the 1990s.
Today, with hallmark dishes such as dandan noodles and dry-fried green beans on menus far and wide, novice expectations of Sichuanese cuisine tend to centre on its smouldering use of chilies, and the lip-tingling effects of Sichuan pepper. But as Dunlop impresses, the mala — “numbing-and-hot” — flavour combination, while essential, is just one of 23 “official” complex flavours in the culinary canon.
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