Meet a new wave of Mexican restaurants

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In recent years, there’s been a wave of new Mexican food establishments and shops popping up. Now, there’s a cabal of cooks diving deeper into regionally rooted traditional cooking while, at the same time, taking the cuisine in new directions.

On a snowy afternoon, Luis Bautista and Viridiana Cano of Puerto Bravo restaurant in the Little India neighbourhood are discussing what will be on their new menu. It’s a small restaurant, with exposed brick and a handful of bistro chairs inside. The food here is an ode to the cooking in Tampico, a port city in the Gulf of Mexico in the southeastern part of the state of Tamaulipas.

Now, there’s a cabal of cooks diving deeper into regionally rooted traditional cooking while, at the same time, taking the cuisine in new directions. “There are a number of dishes that we are waiting to put on the menu, dishes that we haven’t seen in Toronto before,” he said.Cano presents one of the restaurant’s most popular tacos: a corn tortilla topped with fried shrimp and sour cream. A few slices of pickled onions and then a healthy serving of salsa brava, an adobo Bautista makes using three types of Mexican chiles reconstituted with butter, lard and orange juice. “This usually takes us 28 hours to make, it is a long process,” said Cano.

 

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