Sheep roam freely, much of the milking is still done by hand, and the tools of cheese-making tend to be wooden, Clark says of the ancient practice. Sardinia is famous for its pecorino, a hard sheep’s milk cheese, which is one of the island’s main exports. “In terms of cookery, specifically Sardinian cookery, cheese is the cook’s greatest gift, after olive oil, wine and wheat,” writes Clark. “Almost every Sardinian dish contains some or other form of cheese, whether it be savoury or sweet.
For Clark, the process of immersing herself in her new home while researching its food culture also marked a renewed love of home cooking. After working in professional kitchens for several years, she found joy in a cuisine whose strength lies in its simplicity. Likewise,shines in its culinary clarity. There’s the three-ingredient malloreddus with mutton broth and pecorino , which for Clark, “sums up Sardinia.
“I wanted to honour the cuisine and the traditions. But I also felt that it was important not to set myself up as a 100 per cent traditional writer. Because there are recipes in there which are things that I make or things that Luca and I made when we worked in restaurants in London. Or things that I eat that are not necessarily 100 per cent Sardinian,” says Clark. “It’s a mixture and I think life is like that.
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