Canadian chef Jessica Rosval, left, jokes with trainee Vida Odoma in the kitchen of Roots, her new restaurant in Modena, Italy, where immigrant women train to become chefs.Not just home kitchens or communal gatherings, but kitchens of the world's top restaurants, where a boys' club culture of toxicity and exploitation was long accepted as par for the course.
All the dishes the women are making reflect where they come from, with twists from their new home in Italy. As anyone who has worked in restaurants or read about restaurant culture is aware, kitchens are often steeped in toxicity, and bullying, sexism and exploitation can be rampant. Rosval says anxiety, depression and burnout are the norm among those who work in kitchens.
At 18, she enrolled in culinary school and was recruited by Montreal chef Laurent Godbout of Chez l'Epicier, who saw her potential at a competition and eventually made her his"What did he see in me?" she asked with a laugh. "Gutsiness, someone really wild, young, and outspoken who wouldn't say no to crazy events. Maybe my ignorance?"
The breakfast spread overseen by Rosval at Casa Maria Luigia. She's also won several awards for the brunch she serves there that melds the flavours of Canada and Italy. Rosval and Caporossi say they met with a lot of resistance when they first presented the idea of Roots, with locals warning them a restaurant run by migrant women with a mostly African menu wouldn't fly in a provincial town like Modena.
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