A slice of authentic Caribbean life in Bequia

The view from the Estate Villa at the Bequia Beach Hotel on Bequia.It’s not the first time. On the streets of Port Elizabeth, in Bequia, I stand out. The constant raising and snapping of photos on my iPhone a dead giveaway that I’m a tourist.About an hour later, as I’m making my way down one of the side streets, I see him again – this time walking with friends. He waves as if we’re old pals, before telling me about the dance club that will be a hot spot tonight.

But unlike some of the minimalist, Miami Beach-esque islands that surround it, Bequia – located about 180 kilometres west of Barbados and 16 kilometres south of St. Vincent – feels Old World Caribbean. Goats outnumber people, you won’t find any of the chain restaurants you’re used to and while hotels offer meal-plan options, they aren’t exactly all-inclusive.

Smaller islands, such as those in the Grenadines, are finding their calling in offering niche, authentic opportunities for the jaded among us. Places where you experience the island as it is, quirks and all. There are no direct flights to the island – visitors arrive via ferry or hop-over flight from a nearby island.It’s one of the things that drew Bengt Mortstedt, a Swedish entrepreneur to the island in the first place.At the time, he was looking for a good retirement spot. When he saw the beach on Friendship Bay on a sailing trip, plans changed. Instead of the family villa he had initially planned, he built a 12-room bed and breakfast between the trees in 2009.

The community also holds strong to some of the traditions that tourists may be uncomfortable with. A whaling tradition that dates back centuries is revived each Easter when locals set out to catch a whale in the waters off the island’s shores. Once caught, the whale is brought out to Sample Cay where the meat, a local delicacy, is shared. The practice is limited and sanctioned by the International Whaling Commission, and arguably the biggest celebration of the year.

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